DRY & CRISP, DUSTY & MUSKY, TART & YEASTY During a very long, very fun evening at Mateo Bar y Tapas, over plates of jamon y trucha, pan con tomate, and morcilla, our good friend Nate Mayorga remarked that his fifth glass of Isastegi tasted like "a clean attic filled with well-cared-for records." We thought that was the greatest sentence ever spoken, both for its poeticism and appropriateness. This is a serious Basque potion packed with tart, rich, briny apple flavor and not a drop of sweetness. Perfect for very long, very fun nights. Serving suggestions: Anything, really, as long as it keeps on coming. But for Basque purposes let’s say omelettes with Bacalao and oysters.